Since food is one of the fundamental aspects of Japanese culture, it sounds essential to me to visit the Sapporo Central Wholesale Market. That is why I did not hesitate to sacrifice a part of my night when friends of mine offered me to visit the place.

　I got up at three in the morning, met my friends half an hour later, and we arrived at four at the market. It was still dark. Not yet completely awoken, I was little by little taken by the atmosphere. Although it was very early in the morning, people here were very busy. There a turret truck went through narrow aisles, carrying the precious food. Here a fish auction sale was carried on. Everything went very fast: one lot was designated, brokers wrote their price on boards: the highest price won and it was the turn of the next lot. And all this lasted less than five seconds.

　Wandering in the warehouses, I was surprised to see so many different kinds of fishes, crustaceans and shells: octopuses, squids, salmons, tunas, crabs, etc. I now understand better why Japanese cuisine is so rich.

　After the visit, my companions and I decided to go to one of the various shops in the part of the market aimed at non-professionals: Hikarizushi. We sat at the counter and discussed with the chef while he was cooking for us the freshest fishes. Delicious!

　It is now seven in the morning. I have not even noticed that three hours have spent. We leave the market. It is just the beginning of the day.

（May 2008）

■ Sapporo Central Wholesale Market

Address:　North 12, West 20, Chuo-ku, Sapporo
Public opening hours:　5:00〜16:00
Holidays:　Sundays, Dec. 29 〜 Jan. 4, other days fixed by the market (see calendar here)
Access:　10 min. walk from Nijuyon-ken subway station (Tozai Line) or JR Soen Station
Information:　Sapporo Central Whole Market　TEL 011-611-3111

■ Hikarizushi

Address:　Maruka Wholesale Center, 1-20, North 12, West 20, Chuo-ku, Sapporo　TEL 011-612-9810
Opening hours:　5:00〜14:00
Holidays:　Sundays, Dec. 29 〜 Jan. 4, other days fixed by the market (see calendar here)
Access:　10 min. walk from Nijuyon-ken subway station (Tozai Line) or JR Soen Station

■ Affiliated article
“Ichiba” “Market“ The kitchen for the citizen

■ Official web site
Sapporo Central Wholesale Market

All kinds of fishes, from high quality ones to the very common ones, coming essentially from Hokkaido, are sold in Sapporo Central Wholesale Market

Flensing a tuna bid at auction.

For 2,800 yen, the chef prepares for you 10 sushis made from the best fishes of the day.